First – I am sorry that I haven’t posted in a while! Last week I was writing this same sentence for a blog post about why I hadn’t written in so long – and then for some reason the internet screen crashed and I lost the long post. I was so frustrated I didn’t start over…until now. (I have no good excuse for not writing this over the weekend!)
So last week our good friend Jonathan was here to visit! We had a great time and showed him the religious, historic Jerusalem, the Green Line (international zone) Palestine, the night life of Tel Aviv and the best of dining in Israel
Inspired by my recent reading of My Life in France by Julia Child, I will first tell you about the food: Paul made his famous Shakshuka, a traditional Israeli dish of spiced tomatoes with a poached egg on top, accompanied by fresh bread from the market. On Friday, the most lively day at the sheuk, we enjoyed schwarma (grilled meats and veggies) across the isle from an herb stand, sitting in between a butcher and an olive vendor. Jerusalem falafel was a disappointment all around and I again apologize to Jonathan for the poor service, quality and price. However, this experience was happily overshadowed by the most refreshing and delicious fresh-squeezed, iced lemonade with fresh mint. (I know, I used the word FRESH twice – three times – in one sentence but no synonym could possibly convey to you how refreshing this was!) Back in Tel Aviv we ate at a charming little Italian restaurant and then had our final lunch with Jonathan at a great restaurant called Dallal.
Dallah has several small dining rooms and a central courtyard. The menu and chairs are elegant as if they came from an English castle. Where you would expect a tin ceiling, you find rustic wood beams fit for a cabin: These two styles (elegant and rustic) can also be found in the food. The “Executive Lunch” is a two-course meal with either a hot or cold beverage. I started with a calamari ceviche in a tahini-yogurt sauce, Paul had salad with genuine bacon, and Jonathan had my favorite – a duck pate with jellied beats. (I promise you it is the most delicious dish of my life!). The main courses were also amazing, a seafood pasta, broiled chicken, and farmer’s market gnocchi with whole-roasted garlic cloves! Please come visit so I have an occasion to go back! While it is a large lunch the menu is half the price of the otherwise identical dinner menu.
Beyond the food – the Old City was awe-inspiring as usual, very hot and not-so-crowed as we were there on Shabot. Walking from the Jewish to the Armenian quarter, from the Muslim to the Christian quarter, you could feel the change in cultures. The stores, the people, the language, the feel…it was very distinct in each. Everything in the Jewish quarter was shut down for Shabot but there were informative signs telling the history of a specific building or the reconstruction project in the works. The Christian quarter was bustling with tourists and vendors, there were churches and hostels for Christian pilgrims. The Muslim quarter was calm and dark with pockets of lively music; armed Israeli guards blocked certain streets and the entrance to the Dome of the Rock, allowing only Muslims in on their day of prayer. (This is our second failed attempt to see the Dome of the Rock – you can usually go, but not on holidays or days of prayer.)
On Shabot at the Western Wall there is no work allowed. Traditionally visitors write their prayers on a piece of paper and slide it in between the cracks in the Wall which, in Judaism, has the presence of God. (Whereas Christians believe God is everywhere, Judaism holds that God is only in the Holy of Holies, or the innermost area of the temple. This wall is the remains of the Second Temple, thus God’s presence is still there.) Anyway, Jonathan is writing his prayer and a short old woman in a white silk bonnet rushes over – “No writing on Shabot!” she whispers harshly. “Ah, that makes sense,” says Jonathan. No it doesn’t! If I can’t write because it is work then you can’t tell me not to write – because that is work too! So you telling me not to work is causing you to work and is therefore causing us both to work on Shabot! That makes no sense at all.
The trip was wonderful and it was great to see a friend! Thanks so much for coming Jonathan!!! (I'll add pictures to this post tonight.)
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