You can scan the New York Times and read every word of your local paper - but you will miss the relevant news from our region of the world...at least relevant to us.
The first story I won't explain, but you might find it interesting: Here is the link.
The second story is fascinating (and does not cause harm to us or represent and increased level of danger).
Version One: My version. Paul and Jen were working late at the office. When they finally left at 7pm, the sun was beginning to set over the Mediterranean Sea and beach-goers were coming out of the water and crossing the street like wild crabs or baby turtles. The couple walked to the car and drove home along the usual route, stopping briefly at the Embassy. At approximately half-way home the traffic got thick. This wasn't the usual pedestrians crossing the street, cars parked in the driving line, or other Middle Eastern driving habit we've written about. No, this type of traffic was unprecedented for post-rush hour Tuesday night driving.
Inching through the intersection, around the bend, down the hill, under the bridge, up the hill and to the next intersection, Paul and Jen could see police lights ahead. As they approached one foreign embassy (not ours), Paul noted the police tape on the fence. Hmm...perhaps a car accident at their gate. No...the heavy traffic continued and the police presence increased. As the couple passed the second embassy on the block Paul pointed out the high security and the news cameras: "Look Jen, high security and news cameras." The traffic dispersed like mist on a water fall, yet Jen contributed to mess by driving slow to get a glimpse at the action. The Turkish Embassy. Cameras. Crowds. Police...something was happening.
As the couple pulled onto their road after an hour commute, Paul found the headlines on his blackberry: Shots fired at Turkish Embassy. Palestinian...blood thirsty Isaelis...Not good.
Version Two: For the Haaretz version click here. (Haaretz is one of two English-language newspapers in Israel). The second picture is the Turkish Embassy - the street in the story above is pictured.
Version Three: An Arabic news article - translated for me by a co-worker. A Palestinian man who used to sell secrets to Israeli intelligence (their CIA) stormed the Turkish embassy demanding asylum. He took two hostages and after 6 hours the Turkish embassy turned him over to Israeli police. Apparently he can't go back to the West Bank or Gaza (or he'll be killed for being a traitor), yet the Israeli's have betrayed him. He is now stuck in Israel with no job and no where to go. He can't get a job here (for political reasons) and he can't get a visa (because of his record). Four years ago he did the same thing at the Brittish embassy (which is just down the road) and went to jail for year. (Insert something about drugs...spies...and treason.) But wait! There is more: Apparently he did all of this....with a plastic gun.
I kid you not folks. True story - or at least they tell me it is true.
Saturday, August 21, 2010
JHG in Tel Aviv!
Jonathan was here! I would have written while he was here, but there wasn't much time for that. I think he hit up all of the highlights and, inspired by Julia Child's My Life in France, we had a gastronomical tour in conjuction with a historical and modern tour. What this really means is that we saw the best historical sites, ate the best food Tel Aviv has to offer, and of course made sure Jonathan left with a good understanding of Tel Aviv nightlife. We didn't go overboard - but it was packed.
The highlights: Jonathan arrived on Thursday, Paul made his famous shakshukah and we took him to the hip "Jaffa Night Market" which is a street festival with cafes, beer stands, clowns, live music and botique designer stands. Friday we sent him exploring the streets of Tel Aviv (in 100' weather) and met up for lunch in the Sheuk HaCaramel (the Carmel Market). Friday's are the best days as the market is packed with shoppers preparing for Shabot dinners and with tourists who just flew in for the weekend. Happy hour at a chic wine bar in the artsy district was followed by dinner at home.
On Saturday we drove to Jerusalem where the city was in full Shabot mode. The hotels were close, we couldn't enter the Dome of the Rock (the Muslim religious site in the Old City), and the city was in general very calm. We wandered through the Muslim quarter and the Jewish quarter, the Christian and the Armenian and all noted the distinct feeling of each. The atmosphere changes dramatically with the change in stores, languages, the streets, the people, everything. The Western Wall was the highlight of the trip. (This is the only remaining wall of the Third Temple; a direct line to God according to jewish beliefs. Most people write prayers on little slips of paper and leave them in the cracks of the wall.) Being Shabot (when no work is allowed) we couldn't take pictures inside and when Jonathan tried to write down his prayer a little old woman walked up and quicky said "NO WRITING ON SHABOT!" "Ah, sorry. That makes sense," was Jonathans reply. Haha! He had to go outside to write.
The highlights: Jonathan arrived on Thursday, Paul made his famous shakshukah and we took him to the hip "Jaffa Night Market" which is a street festival with cafes, beer stands, clowns, live music and botique designer stands. Friday we sent him exploring the streets of Tel Aviv (in 100' weather) and met up for lunch in the Sheuk HaCaramel (the Carmel Market). Friday's are the best days as the market is packed with shoppers preparing for Shabot dinners and with tourists who just flew in for the weekend. Happy hour at a chic wine bar in the artsy district was followed by dinner at home.
On Saturday we drove to Jerusalem where the city was in full Shabot mode. The hotels were close, we couldn't enter the Dome of the Rock (the Muslim religious site in the Old City), and the city was in general very calm. We wandered through the Muslim quarter and the Jewish quarter, the Christian and the Armenian and all noted the distinct feeling of each. The atmosphere changes dramatically with the change in stores, languages, the streets, the people, everything. The Western Wall was the highlight of the trip. (This is the only remaining wall of the Third Temple; a direct line to God according to jewish beliefs. Most people write prayers on little slips of paper and leave them in the cracks of the wall.) Being Shabot (when no work is allowed) we couldn't take pictures inside and when Jonathan tried to write down his prayer a little old woman walked up and quicky said "NO WRITING ON SHABOT!" "Ah, sorry. That makes sense," was Jonathans reply. Haha! He had to go outside to write.
Monday, August 16, 2010
A Visit from Jonathan!
First – I am sorry that I haven’t posted in a while! Last week I was writing this same sentence for a blog post about why I hadn’t written in so long – and then for some reason the internet screen crashed and I lost the long post. I was so frustrated I didn’t start over…until now. (I have no good excuse for not writing this over the weekend!)
So last week our good friend Jonathan was here to visit! We had a great time and showed him the religious, historic Jerusalem, the Green Line (international zone) Palestine, the night life of Tel Aviv and the best of dining in Israel
Inspired by my recent reading of My Life in France by Julia Child, I will first tell you about the food: Paul made his famous Shakshuka, a traditional Israeli dish of spiced tomatoes with a poached egg on top, accompanied by fresh bread from the market. On Friday, the most lively day at the sheuk, we enjoyed schwarma (grilled meats and veggies) across the isle from an herb stand, sitting in between a butcher and an olive vendor. Jerusalem falafel was a disappointment all around and I again apologize to Jonathan for the poor service, quality and price. However, this experience was happily overshadowed by the most refreshing and delicious fresh-squeezed, iced lemonade with fresh mint. (I know, I used the word FRESH twice – three times – in one sentence but no synonym could possibly convey to you how refreshing this was!) Back in Tel Aviv we ate at a charming little Italian restaurant and then had our final lunch with Jonathan at a great restaurant called Dallal.
Dallah has several small dining rooms and a central courtyard. The menu and chairs are elegant as if they came from an English castle. Where you would expect a tin ceiling, you find rustic wood beams fit for a cabin: These two styles (elegant and rustic) can also be found in the food. The “Executive Lunch” is a two-course meal with either a hot or cold beverage. I started with a calamari ceviche in a tahini-yogurt sauce, Paul had salad with genuine bacon, and Jonathan had my favorite – a duck pate with jellied beats. (I promise you it is the most delicious dish of my life!). The main courses were also amazing, a seafood pasta, broiled chicken, and farmer’s market gnocchi with whole-roasted garlic cloves! Please come visit so I have an occasion to go back! While it is a large lunch the menu is half the price of the otherwise identical dinner menu.
Beyond the food – the Old City was awe-inspiring as usual, very hot and not-so-crowed as we were there on Shabot. Walking from the Jewish to the Armenian quarter, from the Muslim to the Christian quarter, you could feel the change in cultures. The stores, the people, the language, the feel…it was very distinct in each. Everything in the Jewish quarter was shut down for Shabot but there were informative signs telling the history of a specific building or the reconstruction project in the works. The Christian quarter was bustling with tourists and vendors, there were churches and hostels for Christian pilgrims. The Muslim quarter was calm and dark with pockets of lively music; armed Israeli guards blocked certain streets and the entrance to the Dome of the Rock, allowing only Muslims in on their day of prayer. (This is our second failed attempt to see the Dome of the Rock – you can usually go, but not on holidays or days of prayer.)
On Shabot at the Western Wall there is no work allowed. Traditionally visitors write their prayers on a piece of paper and slide it in between the cracks in the Wall which, in Judaism, has the presence of God. (Whereas Christians believe God is everywhere, Judaism holds that God is only in the Holy of Holies, or the innermost area of the temple. This wall is the remains of the Second Temple, thus God’s presence is still there.) Anyway, Jonathan is writing his prayer and a short old woman in a white silk bonnet rushes over – “No writing on Shabot!” she whispers harshly. “Ah, that makes sense,” says Jonathan. No it doesn’t! If I can’t write because it is work then you can’t tell me not to write – because that is work too! So you telling me not to work is causing you to work and is therefore causing us both to work on Shabot! That makes no sense at all.
The trip was wonderful and it was great to see a friend! Thanks so much for coming Jonathan!!! (I'll add pictures to this post tonight.)
So last week our good friend Jonathan was here to visit! We had a great time and showed him the religious, historic Jerusalem, the Green Line (international zone) Palestine, the night life of Tel Aviv and the best of dining in Israel
Inspired by my recent reading of My Life in France by Julia Child, I will first tell you about the food: Paul made his famous Shakshuka, a traditional Israeli dish of spiced tomatoes with a poached egg on top, accompanied by fresh bread from the market. On Friday, the most lively day at the sheuk, we enjoyed schwarma (grilled meats and veggies) across the isle from an herb stand, sitting in between a butcher and an olive vendor. Jerusalem falafel was a disappointment all around and I again apologize to Jonathan for the poor service, quality and price. However, this experience was happily overshadowed by the most refreshing and delicious fresh-squeezed, iced lemonade with fresh mint. (I know, I used the word FRESH twice – three times – in one sentence but no synonym could possibly convey to you how refreshing this was!) Back in Tel Aviv we ate at a charming little Italian restaurant and then had our final lunch with Jonathan at a great restaurant called Dallal.
Dallah has several small dining rooms and a central courtyard. The menu and chairs are elegant as if they came from an English castle. Where you would expect a tin ceiling, you find rustic wood beams fit for a cabin: These two styles (elegant and rustic) can also be found in the food. The “Executive Lunch” is a two-course meal with either a hot or cold beverage. I started with a calamari ceviche in a tahini-yogurt sauce, Paul had salad with genuine bacon, and Jonathan had my favorite – a duck pate with jellied beats. (I promise you it is the most delicious dish of my life!). The main courses were also amazing, a seafood pasta, broiled chicken, and farmer’s market gnocchi with whole-roasted garlic cloves! Please come visit so I have an occasion to go back! While it is a large lunch the menu is half the price of the otherwise identical dinner menu.
Beyond the food – the Old City was awe-inspiring as usual, very hot and not-so-crowed as we were there on Shabot. Walking from the Jewish to the Armenian quarter, from the Muslim to the Christian quarter, you could feel the change in cultures. The stores, the people, the language, the feel…it was very distinct in each. Everything in the Jewish quarter was shut down for Shabot but there were informative signs telling the history of a specific building or the reconstruction project in the works. The Christian quarter was bustling with tourists and vendors, there were churches and hostels for Christian pilgrims. The Muslim quarter was calm and dark with pockets of lively music; armed Israeli guards blocked certain streets and the entrance to the Dome of the Rock, allowing only Muslims in on their day of prayer. (This is our second failed attempt to see the Dome of the Rock – you can usually go, but not on holidays or days of prayer.)
On Shabot at the Western Wall there is no work allowed. Traditionally visitors write their prayers on a piece of paper and slide it in between the cracks in the Wall which, in Judaism, has the presence of God. (Whereas Christians believe God is everywhere, Judaism holds that God is only in the Holy of Holies, or the innermost area of the temple. This wall is the remains of the Second Temple, thus God’s presence is still there.) Anyway, Jonathan is writing his prayer and a short old woman in a white silk bonnet rushes over – “No writing on Shabot!” she whispers harshly. “Ah, that makes sense,” says Jonathan. No it doesn’t! If I can’t write because it is work then you can’t tell me not to write – because that is work too! So you telling me not to work is causing you to work and is therefore causing us both to work on Shabot! That makes no sense at all.
The trip was wonderful and it was great to see a friend! Thanks so much for coming Jonathan!!! (I'll add pictures to this post tonight.)
Wednesday, August 4, 2010
Something in the water....
The most important line of this post: This is not about me, nor is it a hint at anything.
There is something in the water here. We've noticed this pandemic throughout the country - and now it is hitting our office...hard. Two weeks ago it took out one girl - she'll be back in 6 months. Another girl can't be more than a month or two away...and a third will be out in December.
In Israel - by law - women get 3 months of paid maternity leave and an additional 3 months unpaid, after which they can return to their jobs. That is 6 moths out of the office.
Now, clearly the women I've already mentioned have had a bun in the oven for quite some time. But in the past two weeks 2 more have told me privately that they too, are pregnant. I am super excited for them! (Leheim!!) But, needless to say - the pregnant/on-maternity-leave girls are everywhere!
For the record, of the 100 people I know in Isreal (through work or as friends): 1 just had her baby, 3 are due by the end of the year, and another 2 are due in Spring. If you boil that down to only those who are female, married and of the age to have a child - I would say 60% of the eligible population is preggers. I'm kind of glad they don't have baby showers - I'd be broke!!!
There is something in the water here. We've noticed this pandemic throughout the country - and now it is hitting our office...hard. Two weeks ago it took out one girl - she'll be back in 6 months. Another girl can't be more than a month or two away...and a third will be out in December.
In Israel - by law - women get 3 months of paid maternity leave and an additional 3 months unpaid, after which they can return to their jobs. That is 6 moths out of the office.
Now, clearly the women I've already mentioned have had a bun in the oven for quite some time. But in the past two weeks 2 more have told me privately that they too, are pregnant. I am super excited for them! (Leheim!!) But, needless to say - the pregnant/on-maternity-leave girls are everywhere!
For the record, of the 100 people I know in Isreal (through work or as friends): 1 just had her baby, 3 are due by the end of the year, and another 2 are due in Spring. If you boil that down to only those who are female, married and of the age to have a child - I would say 60% of the eligible population is preggers. I'm kind of glad they don't have baby showers - I'd be broke!!!
Tuesday, August 3, 2010
The Check-out Line
Some aspects of daily life are very different here. For example, I wrote earlier about the driving culture and clearly the language and the market. One thing that is very different and sometime intimidating is the check-out line at the grocery store. We shop at "סופר סול". In Hebrew letters the S and SH (the first letter in each word) like P and PH (the third letter in the first word...from the left) are the same letter, as are the place-holders for O and U. There are also no vowels, so you fill in the blanks. This store could be either "Super Sale," but no, it's Shuffer Sol....I don't know what they were thinking - Super Sale is a much better name. Anyway, here is how the drill goes, if you are Israeli:
First - As you walk into the store a security guard is going to check you bags if you have large bags, recyclable grocery bags (which we do) or you are a minority. Yes, we have noticed just a touch of racism to which we usually do not fall victim.
Second - There will be a flier as you walk in with sale items listed. Immediately past the entrance on your right you will find the sale items: usually some canned veggies, some juice, some crackers, Asian pasta and maybe a cleaning product.
You go through the grocery store and pick out your items. The produce is highly priced and of a low quality compared to what you find in the market. So you skip those. The milk is mostly 3% and sold in small quantities (mostly a quarter of a gallon or smaller). There are several butters and yogurts, lots of fresh bread, expensive frozen goods and canned veggies and alcohol that is 4xs the price you'd pay in the States.
Finally, you collect most of your goods and stand in line...better put, you put your things in line. Set your basket on the ground in line and run off to grab a few last minute things. You are certainly not grabbing shrimp or pork because don't have it and will only laugh at you if you ask for it. When you're done you walk back to line and the cashier is helping the lady in front of you who is arguing over the price of some item she thought was on sale but scanned up at a higher price. This happens every time. While you may be frustrated, you remember the first time you watched the prices as the cashier scanned your items and noticed the clear disparity between the shelf price, the sticker on the item and the scanned price. It happens...often.
The cashier asks you for your "cartis" or membership card. Like in the States, you fill out a fill out a form and they mail you the card - only I don't think I gave them the right address...or name - so we have had a temporary card for 5 months. (Yes - we've been here FIVE months!!!)
You pass her the membership card and she scans your items as they would in the States. The cashier says something to you in Hebrew (which you don't really understand) and she nudges a plastic bag towards you. No one is going to put your items in the bag for you - you have to bag them yourself.
As you are bagging your groceries, the cashier - who is probably Russian or Ethiopian - asks you if you would like any of the special items. Let me explain: In the States, right by the check-out line there are stands of candy, gum, magazines, etc. Here, there are 3 or 4 random items that the cashier tries to sell you. When she (we have never had a male cashier) finishes scanning your items, she will ask you (in Hebrew) if you would like to buy chocolates, a toothbrush, gum, or mints.
You tell her: "Lo, toda" (no, thank you) and she totals the bill. As you hand her your shekelim you ask politely for a heshbonit mas or a tax receipt. (When you turn in these receipts at the airport you get your 16% Value Added Tax back.) She will sigh and pull out another piece of paper to print your Heshbonit Mas. The customers behind you are confused and annoyed. You pay and exit, smiling at the security guard - happy that your limited Hebrew got you through another mini-adventure. :)
First - As you walk into the store a security guard is going to check you bags if you have large bags, recyclable grocery bags (which we do) or you are a minority. Yes, we have noticed just a touch of racism to which we usually do not fall victim.
Second - There will be a flier as you walk in with sale items listed. Immediately past the entrance on your right you will find the sale items: usually some canned veggies, some juice, some crackers, Asian pasta and maybe a cleaning product.
You go through the grocery store and pick out your items. The produce is highly priced and of a low quality compared to what you find in the market. So you skip those. The milk is mostly 3% and sold in small quantities (mostly a quarter of a gallon or smaller). There are several butters and yogurts, lots of fresh bread, expensive frozen goods and canned veggies and alcohol that is 4xs the price you'd pay in the States.
Finally, you collect most of your goods and stand in line...better put, you put your things in line. Set your basket on the ground in line and run off to grab a few last minute things. You are certainly not grabbing shrimp or pork because don't have it and will only laugh at you if you ask for it. When you're done you walk back to line and the cashier is helping the lady in front of you who is arguing over the price of some item she thought was on sale but scanned up at a higher price. This happens every time. While you may be frustrated, you remember the first time you watched the prices as the cashier scanned your items and noticed the clear disparity between the shelf price, the sticker on the item and the scanned price. It happens...often.
The cashier asks you for your "cartis" or membership card. Like in the States, you fill out a fill out a form and they mail you the card - only I don't think I gave them the right address...or name - so we have had a temporary card for 5 months. (Yes - we've been here FIVE months!!!)
You pass her the membership card and she scans your items as they would in the States. The cashier says something to you in Hebrew (which you don't really understand) and she nudges a plastic bag towards you. No one is going to put your items in the bag for you - you have to bag them yourself.
As you are bagging your groceries, the cashier - who is probably Russian or Ethiopian - asks you if you would like any of the special items. Let me explain: In the States, right by the check-out line there are stands of candy, gum, magazines, etc. Here, there are 3 or 4 random items that the cashier tries to sell you. When she (we have never had a male cashier) finishes scanning your items, she will ask you (in Hebrew) if you would like to buy chocolates, a toothbrush, gum, or mints.
You tell her: "Lo, toda" (no, thank you) and she totals the bill. As you hand her your shekelim you ask politely for a heshbonit mas or a tax receipt. (When you turn in these receipts at the airport you get your 16% Value Added Tax back.) She will sigh and pull out another piece of paper to print your Heshbonit Mas. The customers behind you are confused and annoyed. You pay and exit, smiling at the security guard - happy that your limited Hebrew got you through another mini-adventure. :)
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